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A Brief History of the Pantsuit: a Journey Through Fashion and Empowerment
Imagine a world where slipping into your favorite pair of pants could land you in hot water—or even behind bars. Not too long ago, this was the reality for many women. We've certainly made strides since the days when women risked legal trouble simply by wearing trousers, let alone daring to pair them with jackets boasting padded shoulders and lapels. Welcome to the journey of the iconic pantsuit, the sartorial embodiment of power and sass!
Defying Convention: The Birth of the Pantsuit
In the 19th and early 20th centuries, trousers were strictly designated as men’s attire, deemed entirely unsuitable for respectable women. In fact, until the 1950s, women could be arrested for wearing pants, as they were considered a form of "disguise" when worn by women. Thus, instead, some women opted for a precursor to the modern pantsuit: a skirt paired with a matching fitted jacket.
However, the pantsuit as we know it today first emerged in the 1930s when women in elite circles started to push the boundaries of conventional fashion, incorporating pantsuits into their wardrobes. This era also saw the terms "trouser suit" and "pant suit" come into popular use, reflecting the growing acceptance of trousers for women, at least within certain progressive circles. Icons like Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, and Katharine Hepburn were among the early adopters of this daring fashion choice. In a groundbreaking scene in her film "Morocco," Marlene Dietrich shocked the world by donning a tuxedo and kissing another woman.
Marlene Dietich wearing a pantsuit, 1933
Despite the pantsuit's presence on the silver screen, societal resistance remained strong. In 1938, a woman in Los Angeles was arrested for wearing pants to testify in court. Interviewed by the LA Times, she remarked, “You tell the judge I will stand on my rights. If he orders me to change into a dress, I won’t do it. I like slacks. They’re more comfortable.” Indeed, for many women, wearing pants wasn't about “wearing the pants”—it was simply about comfort!
Pants gained further traction as a utilitarian solution for working women during World War II, which saw the percentage of American women in the workforce rise from 27 to nearly 37 percent between 1940 and 1945. With men away at war, women took on industrial roles that often required practical clothing, including trousers. However, once the war ended, many women had to return to their skirt-and-dress lifestyles, as the trouser trend did not immediately take hold in peacetime.
The Swinging Sixties:
Things really took off for the pantsuit in the 1960s.
The 1960s was a groundbreaking era for women, characterized by significant achievements for second-wave feminists. One notable milestone was the enactment of Title VII of the Civil Rights Act, which prohibited discrimination against women by private employers. In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent launched his iconic “Le Smoking,” a tuxedo for women intended for evening wear. About his novel creation—which was initially ridiculed by the fashion world—Laurent commented that, “For a woman, the tuxedo is an indispensable garment in which she will always feel in style, for it is a stylish garment and not a fashionable garment. Fashions fade, style is eternal.” Laurent not only challenged conventional notions of femininity but also foreshadowed the enduring legacy of the pantsuit as a symbol of style and sophistication.
Yves Saint Laurent’s “Le Smoking,” 1966
Power Suits: From Pat Nixon to Pantsuit Nation
We can’t talk about the history of the pantsuit without talking about Hillary Clinton, who is practically synonymous with this iconic ensemble. But to understand the pantsuit's role in the political sphere, we first need to wind our clocks back to the 1970s. The first sitting first lady to wear a pantsuit was Pat Nixon, President Richard Nixon’s wife, who donned the ensemble in a photograph taken in 1972. Within the political sphere, where women were themselves a novelty, let alone pants, the pantsuit was considered a rather radical garment. In fact, up until 1993, according to an unofficial rule enforced by Senate doorkeepers, women were not allowed to wear pants on the floor of the US Senate. But in 1993, Senator Barbara Mikulski had had enough and walked on the Senate floor wearing a pantsuit, becoming the first woman in history to do so.
Flash forward to today, the pantsuit has been embraced by numerous prominent politicians—including Hillary Clinton, Angela Merkel, and Theresa May—solidifying its status as a symbol of power, authority, and modern femininity in the political arena.
So the next time you put on a pantsuit, remember that you are part of a legacy of empowerment!
Check out TC’s awesome pantsuits at our store.
Sources:
https://www.hartcluett.org/rensselaer-county-blog/pantsuit
https://www.vice.com/en/article/wd7vey/the-history-of-the-pantsuit-456
https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/marlene-dietrich-dressed-for-the-image/index.html
https://museeyslparis.com/en/biography/premier-smokingLeave a comment
