Imli Diaries

Wait, bamboo clothes?

Yep! Bamboo is not just for pandas and chic home decor—it can be turned into some pretty stylish clothes too! And guess what? Compared to many other fibres, bamboo is actually pretty great for the environment. First off, this fast-growing grass self-generates from its own roots, so it doesn’t need to be replanted. It also doesn’t require fertilisers or pesticides, making it an organic farmer's dream. Bamboo usually doesn’t even need irrigation and can flourish in a variety of climates. Talk about resilience! And get this, since the roots stay intact after harvesting, bamboo even improves soil quality and prevents erosion. Compared to water-guzzling, chemical-loving cotton this sounds so much better, right? So why don’t we all jump on the bamboo train?

The grass is greener
Bamboo is definitely more sustainable to cultivate than cotton, but it’s not always a perfect solution. Most bamboo is grown in China, where intensive farming practices have disrupted the ecological balance. Thankfully, however, the Chinese government has been cracking down on these harmful practices, working towards more sustainable cultivation methods.
However, the bigger problem lies in the chemical-intensive process required to convert bamboo into wearable fabric. This process often involves harsh chemicals, which can be harmful to both the environment and factory workers. 

From shoots to shirts

Bamboo can be transformed into fabric through several methods, each with distinct environmental and economic implications.

1. Mechanical Process: This sustainable method involves crushing the woody parts of bamboo and then using natural enzymes to break down the bamboo walls, leaving behind natural fibers. These fibers are combed out, spun into yarn, and woven into fabric. The mechanical process is environmentally friendly as it does not involve harmful chemicals. However, it is labor-intensive, time-consuming, and costly, which limits its widespread use.

2. Bamboo Viscose (Rayon): This method is more common due to its cost-effectiveness. In this process, bamboo is broken down using strong chemical solvents such as caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) and carbon disulfide. The resulting solution is then extruded to form fibers that are spun into yarn and woven into fabric. While bamboo viscose production is efficient and produces a soft, versatile fabric, the use of toxic chemicals poses significant environmental and health risks. Approximately 50% of the waste produced in this process cannot be recaptured and reused, necessitating careful disposal as hazardous waste. Unfortunately, many manufacturers opt to dump this waste into waterways, causing severe pollution, ecological damage, and risks to human health.

Inside a bamboo fabric factory
https://nwzimg.wezhan.net/contents/sitefiles3606/18034637/images/6496672.jpeg 

No better way?
Actually, there is a better way, and it’s called lyocell. The lyocell production process is similar to viscose in that it starts with plant-based raw materials (like bamboo) which are treated with chemicals to create a yarn that is spun into fabric. Lyocell is made using a "closed-loop" process, which significantly reduces its environmental impact. 

In this closed-loop system, 99% of the chemical solution used in the production process is recaptured and reused. This not only minimizes waste but also dramatically reduces the release of harmful chemicals into the environment. The primary solvent used in lyocell production, N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO), is far less toxic than the carbon disulfide used in traditional viscose production. However, even with these improvements, it's crucial to manage chemical exposure and disposal carefully to ensure the process remains sustainable.

Bamboozled?

So, what now? To bamboo or not to bamboo? Our verdict: the production process matters. While bamboo is incredibly sustainable to grow, with its rapid growth rate, minimal water needs, and zero pesticide requirements, turning it into fabric is where things get tricky.

Bamboo can be sustainably transformed into fabric using mechanical processes or closed-loop systems like the lyocell process. These methods minimize environmental harm by recycling chemicals and reducing waste. However, the reality is that most bamboo fabric on the market today is bamboo viscose, produced using chemical-intensive methods that involve toxic substances like carbon disulfide and sulfuric acid. This process not only impacts the environment but also poses health risks to workers. 

So, if you're considering bamboo clothing or textiles, do your homework. Look for brands that are transparent about their production methods and prioritize sustainable practices. Brands that use closed-loop processes or mechanical methods are your best bet for truly eco-friendly bamboo fabric. 

Sources:

https://goodonyou.eco/bamboo-fabric-sustainable/ 

https://sustainabilityscout.com/bamboo-products-and-sustainability-how-eco-friendly-are-they/ 

https://www.trvst.world/sustainable-living/fashion/bamboo-fabric-sustainability/