Imli Diaries

What is Leather?

Leather is a material derived from the tanning of animal skins. Most often, it is sourced from animals which are raised for meat, including cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs. Although the modern practice of chemical tanning only came about at the tail end of the 19th century, leather-making has been practiced in various forms by humans all over the world for over 7000 years! 

The Environmental Impacts of the Leather Industry

In recent decades, the rapid expansion of the fashion industry has propelled the global leather goods market to a staggering valuation of nearly $400 billion. However, accompanying this immense growth are equally immense impacts on the environment. 

For one, as you may imagine, the animals from which hide is obtained to make leather can be subject to poor factory farming conditions. They are often treated cruelly, exposed to unsanitary conditions, and brutally slaughtered and disposed of. Some animals are even skinned alive. Furthermore, the need for pastureland to raise cattle has contributed to deforestation around the world to accommodate the demands of the leather industry. In fact, the leather industry has been directly linked to deforestation in Brazil where, to produce around ten leather bags, one entire hectare of land must be cleared. 

The industrial process of leather production also poses significant environmental and health hazards. Tanning requires large amounts of energy and water, along with the use of hazardous chemicals, oils, and dyes, some of which are cyanide-based. The discharge of these chemicals from tanneries contaminates surrounding ecosystems, causing soil and water pollution. Moreover, the emission of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) during leather production contributes to air pollution, which can exacerbate respiratory problems for leather tanners and other people who live in proximity to tanneries. Thus, respiratory illnesses such as asthma and lung cancer, as well as skin cancer from prolonged contact with chemicals, are known risks associated with working in tanneries.

Tannery workers, Vellore

Enter Vegan Leather

Vegan leather, also known as faux leather and eco-leather, replicates the feel and look of animal leather by utilizing either synthetic or plant-based materials. Scientists first began experimenting with leather substitutes in the mid-19th century as cruelty free, ethical alternatives to leather. For the most part, vegan leather has succeeded in this endeavor! Relative to animal leather, not only does vegan leather spare our furry friends from harm, but it also boasts lower levels of deforestation and emissions. 

 Coconut leather made by an Indian textile brand (Source: greenqueen.com)

Plastic, Plastic Everywhere

But there’s a catch. 

While vegan leather is definitely more ethical than animal leather, it’s not always more sustainable. The vast majority of vegan leathers are made out of polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl (PVC)—aka plastic. These synthetic polymers are used in the production of vegan leather because 1) they are relatively cheap, and 2) they imitate the wrinkled look of animal leather. However, to varying degrees, both PU and PVC, are toxic to the environment. PVC in particular, known as the "poison plastic," is notorious for its environmental toxicity. These plastics also produce and shed microplastics, which then enter our waterways, threaten marine life, and even harm human health. Plus, plastic-derived vegan leather takes years to biodegrade, so your product will end up in a landfill at the end of its life. 

Thankfully, however, there are a number of innovative, plant-based alternatives to plastic-derived leather that are increasingly becoming popular amongst the environmentally conscious. Plant-based alternatives to leather use natural materials such as pineapples, coconuts, cork, paper, apples, bananas, and even mushroom caps! However, even with plant-based leathers you do need to be careful. Many brands, while touting their use of plant-based materials, will often conceal the fact that they coat their plant matter with PU and other plastics. 

So what’s the best choice?

Ultimately, there is no one-size-fits-all solution to the complex ethical issues surrounding leather. While plant-based vegan leather is often considered more ethical and sustainable than animal leather, it still comes with its own set of concerns and can be quite expensive. 

If you do choose to buy animal leather, we recommend that you choose brands that utilize vegetable tanning methods rather than chemical ones. Another option is to consider leather made by the Jawaja craftspeople of Rajasthan who use skins from buffaloes that have died naturally and follow natural tanning techniques.

 Jawaja craftspeople (Source: gaatha.com)

Regardless of the type of leather you decide to purchase— animal or vegan—one principle holds true: prioritizing quality over quantity is key. Investing in durable, long-lasting products and maximizing their lifespan through proper care and maintenance can significantly reduce the environmental footprint of leather consumption!

Sources:
https://www.theveganwarehouse.com/blogs/resources/truth-about-leather-industry?campaign=affiliatesection 
https://brightly.eco/blog/vegan-leather-sustainability 
https://circumfauna.org/brazilian-leather-land-use-data 
https://www.britannica.com/topic/leather 
https://www.peta.org/living/personal-care-fashion/what-is-vegan-leather/ 
https://pulitzercenter.org/sites/default/files/styles/max_1200/public/08-19-16/_c030458_0.jpg.webp?itok=81wv93Rz

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