Imli Diaries

Flipping through the glossy pages of Vogue or Harper's Bazaar, or scrolling through your Insta feed, you've probably stumbled upon the term "capsule wardrobe," and you probably have a fairly good idea of what it is too. It’s everywhere (including on our blog!). But what you may not know is the intriguing (and feminist!) history behind its origins. 

Time Capsule

In an industry historically dominated by men, the capsule wardrobe stands out as a fashion phenomenon created by women, for women. While the capsule wardrobe might appear to be a recent fashion fad, it's been a concept in American fashion publications since the 1940s. After a decades-long hiatus, however, the term was revived in the 1970s by a fashion designer named Susie Faux, who is the owner of London’s Wardrobe clothing boutique. She imagined the capsule wardrobe as a collection of timeless pieces that would never go out of fashion and that could be worn in all seasons. 

However, the capsule wardrobe truly became popular due to the influence of Donna Karan, the designer behind the DKNY clothing line. In 1985, Karan launched her "7 Easy Pieces" collection, which consisted of a bodysuit, skirt, tailored jacket, dress, cashmere sweater, white shirt, and a leather item. She designed the collection as a practical solution to the “much-misunderstood needs of the working woman.” Karan believed that a businesswoman should not have to imitate the suit-and-tie look of a man; she should be allowed to embrace her “body, her sensuality.” 

Image from Donna Karan’s RTW Spring 1986 show which showcased her “Seven Easy Pieces.”

A 1994 New York Times article chronicling Karan’s rise to prominence notes that, “After years of being dressed by Ralph and Calvin, Perry and Bill, the women of America embraced Donna.” In Karan’s designs, American women found a refreshing departure from fashion trends traditionally dictated by men. Described as a "shy, gawky girl from Queens" with her "pear-shaped figure, lop-sided ponytail, and harried demeanor," Karan embodied the essence of "Everywoman" – a symbol of the often overlooked and underrepresented woman in the fashion industry. Even today, Karan remains a standout figure amidst the predominantly male landscape of fashion designers. 

Beyond the Capsule 

That’s not to say that the capsule wardrobe is the perfect feminist fashion solution. Some women point out that the capsule wardrobe doesn’t take into account the reality that body size fluctuates; others believe that it's a ‘quiet luxury’ fad that is only realistic for the wealthy. And for others, the capsule wardrobe, with its emphasis on neutral colors, might feel a tad... well, dull. 

But thankfully, the capsule wardrobe is fully customizable! If the rigid structure of the capsule wardrobe doesn’t align with your lifestyle or body changes, consider adopting a more fluid approach to dressing. Embrace a "wardrobe evolution" mindset, where your closet grows and adapts with you. Instead of aiming for a fixed number of items, focus on curating a collection that reflects your current needs and preferences. As for the perception of the capsule wardrobe as a luxury reserved for the wealthy, fear not! There are ways to achieve a minimalist wardrobe on a budget. Thrift stores, clothing swaps, and second-hand markets are treasure troves for affordable, sustainable fashion finds. Lastly, if the neutral color palette of the capsule wardrobe leaves you feeling uninspired, don't be afraid to inject some personality and vibrancy into your style. Experiment with bold patterns, statement accessories, and pops of color to express your unique flair while still embracing the principles of minimalism and versatility. 

Ultimately, the beauty of fashion lies in its diversity and ability to evolve alongside our individual journeys. Whether you're drawn to the simplicity of the capsule wardrobe or prefer to chart your own path, the key is to find a style philosophy that empowers you to feel confident, comfortable, and authentically yourself!

Sources:
https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1994/06/20/448826.html?pageNumber=1 

https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/donna-karan-seven-career-highlights-cold-shoulder 

https://lifeinacoldclimate.com/rants/against-the-capsule-wardrobe/ 

https://fashionjournal.com.au/fashion/minimalist-capsule-wardrobes/

https://rogueandrouge.org/2019/11/21/i-am-not-adopting-a-capsule-wardrobe/